Someone just posted this on Acadiana Moms and I wanted to share.
It's been said that God first separated the salt water from the fresh, made dry land, planted a garden, made animals and fish... all before making a human. He made and provided what we'd need before we were born. These are best & more powerful when eaten raw. We're such slow learners, you know...
God left us great clues as to what foods help what part of our body!
God's Pharmacy! Amazing!
A sliced Carrot looks like the human eye. The pupil,iris and radiating lines look just like the human eye... and YES, science now shows carrots greatly enhance blood flow to and function of the eyes.
A Tomato has four chambers and is red. The heart has four chambers and is red. All of the research shows tomatoes are loaded with lycopene and are indeed pure heart and blood food.
Grapes hang in a cluster that has the shape of the heart.. Each grape looks like a blood cell and all of the research today shows grapes are also profound heart and blood vitalizing food.
A Walnut looks like a little brain, a left and right hemisphere, upper cerebrums and lower cerebellums. Even the wrinkles or folds on the nut are just like the neo-cortex. We now know walnuts help develop more than three (3) dozen neuron-transmitters for proper brain function.
Kidney Beans actually heal and help maintain kidney function, and yes, they look exactly like the human kidneys.
Celery, Bok Choy, Rhubarb and many more look just like bones. These foods specifically target bone strength. Bones are 23% sodium and these foods are 23% sodium. If you don't have enough sodium in your diet, the body pulls it from the bones, thus making them weak. These foods replenish the skeletal needs of the body.
Avocadoes, Eggplant and Pears target the health and function of the womb and cervix of the female - they look just like these organs. Today's research shows that when a woman eats one avocado a week, it balances hormones, sheds unwanted birth weight, and prevents cervical cancers. And how profound is this? It takes exactly nine (9) months to grow an avocado from blossom to ripened fruit. There are over 14,000 photolytic chemical constituents of nutrition in each one of these foods (modern science has only studied and named about 141 of them).
Figs are full of seeds and hang in twos when they grow. Figs increase the mobility of male sperm and increase the numbers of Sperm as well to overcome male sterility.
Sweet Potatoes look like the pancreas and actually balance the glycemic index of diabetics.
Olives assist the health and function of the ovaries.
Oranges, Grapefruits, and other Citrus fruits look just like the mammary glands of the female and actually assist the health of the breasts and the movement of lymph in and out of the breasts.
Onions look like the body's cells. Today's research shows onions help clear waste materials from all of the body cells.. They even produce tears which wash the epithelial layers of the eyes. A working companion, Garlic, also helps eliminate waste materials and dangerous free radicals from the body..
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Why are so many Christians in the dark about nutritian? (growing your own)
TOP 15 VEGETABLES IN ECONOMIC VALUE
Tomatoes
Beets
Green bunching onions
Carrots
Leaf lettuce
Cucumbers
Turnip (greens + roots)
Peppers
Summer squash
Broccoli
Edible podded peas
Head lettuce
Onion storage bulbs
Swiss chard
Beans (pole, bush)
Growing your own:
10 steps to getting started if you have no gardening experience. The three key elements you must have are some sun, soil and water. Minimum tools needed. Gloves and a shovel work fine.
* 1. Stop applying all pesticides and weed killers to the soil in and around
your entire garden. No exceptions. *
*2. Start small, 50 square feet for example. Even better start in your flower garden or use containers on your patio. Find the spot that ideally has sun all year in your yard.
*3. Remove whatever debris is covering the dirt including rocks larger than
a fingernail. If plants already grow there dig them out with the shovel and
save them off to the side for potting or planting elsewhere*
*4. Cover your gardening area with organic material such as leaves, dried
grass clippings and fine plant material.*
*5. Get a bucketful of good compost. You can actually get free compost locally from the compost facility. Making your own is easy and can be done with a purchased compost bin or make your own using a drum or old trashcan. Spread this thinly all over your garden. You will be filling your soil with all manner of organisms, little bugs, worms and other beneficial life forms that are going
to do most of the work for you if you give them the chance. *
*6. Use a rake or shovel to mix the top 3 inches of soil and organic
material. Burying the organic material any deeper just kills the critters
and wastes your energy.*
*7. Keep the soil damp like a wrung out sponge, not soggy.*
*8. Never walk on your soil. Make a kneeling board to avoid compacting it
and use an old cushion to save your knees. *
*9. Obtain vegetables in pots or start your own from seed in seed starters. Dig a hole slightly larger than the pot, squeeze the sides to remove the plant, fluff it's roots lightly and
plant it. Mulch around it with organic material to keep the soil moist. *
(We like going to the local plant shows at Blackhum which is normally in April. The vendors there are usually very knowledgeable and you can actually find some really unique varieties. LSU agriculture department is one of our preferred sellers. Browse and speak with the herb vendors as well; they can share some great advice and usually have unique varieties.)
There is also a lady in town known as the plant lady. She is located near Congress and sells from her home. She has been one of the most knowledgeable people we have met concerning plants. Check the quick quarter in garage sales she usually posts her sales there. But, typically it is every Saturday although I know she had a lot of damage from the hurricane so I am not certain she is selling this year. Her prices are usually very good and can answer any question you may have. If anyone knows who I am speaking of and knows if she is selling this year post a comment to update and pass along that information.
*10. Start your own compost heap in a corner of the garden. Just heap up all
the clean organic material that you can get and mix it up occasionally.
Apply the compost periodically to the soil around your plants or use it to
start your own seeds. Starting a your own compost is great for the environment. It cuts down on what ends up in landfills and why buy fertilizer when you can make it just as easy for free.*
More information on composting http://planetgreen.discovery.com/composting-tips/
Try planting an edible landscaping. When planning your landscaping and flowerbeds consider incorporating edible plants, herbs and trees.
Herb Gardening
The most popular use for herbs is in cooking, and nearly every recipe uses at least one herb. Herbs have many other uses as well. Types such as lemon balm, chamomile and mint make wonderful tea, used either individually or combined. Chamomile makes a soothing tea for relaxing after a stressful day and mint teas help aid in digestion or soothing to an upset tummy.
Many herbs are also believed to have medicinal properties. The echinacea has become popular remedy for colds as well as lemon balm for sore throats, ginger, mint and the purple cone flower are used in herbal cold medicines. Lavender is common for healing wounds and aiding in sleep and aloe applied on the skin to relieve sunburns.
Even those with a so called black thumb like me can usually do well growing herbs. Many herbs also produce attractive flowers such as bee balm and chamomile. According to the 2006 National Gardening Survey, more than 14 million households in the United States grow herbs.
Types of Herbs
Like all plants, herbs can be categorized as annual, perennial, or biennial. Annual plants grow for only one season and so must be planted each spring. Perennials can live for several years. Their foliage die back in the fall, but will resume growth in the spring. And biennials grow for two years, growing foliage the first season, overwintering, then forming seeds and dying back at the end of the second season.
Here are some examples of each type of herb.
Annual Herbs
* basil (I love basil and can eat it off the plant. It is so easy to grow just be sure to waiter daily and pinch back the flowering buds before they flower. Once basil flowers it turns bitter and peppery. Grows fast)
* chamomile
* cilantro/coriander (I assume these are similar to those in the parsley family. this is my first year planting cilantro. The parsley family is easy to grow and worked best for us planted directly in the ground. A neat variation though the name slips me at the moment was one that tasted like cucumbers.)
* cumin
* dill (supposed to be one of the easiest. I tried in the pot and in the ground. The plant in pots failed miserably for me though thrived in the ground.) This year I planted mind in the planter I purchased along side my other herbs. We will see how it fares.
* fennel
Herbs can provide important habitat for beneficial insects. Dill and fennel are two herbs beneficial insects particularly like. So if you can plant these along side those flower that tend to be more problematic (aphids) to attract ladybugs and other beneficial insects. I may try planting another dill near my butterfly (milk) weed. Milkweed is notorious for attracting aphids and mine is no exception. We recently cut it back to try and get rid of as many aphids as possible because they are difficult to control. Ladybugs love aphids so planting dill nearby may help keep the problem under control. You can also purchase live ladybugs to release into your garden, this is another possibility once we get further alon gin the season. I believe Home Depot gets in a shipment of ladybugs, Marshall may as well though I have not been to their new location.
Perennial Herbs*
* chives (We lost almost everything after the hurricane. We had moved most of our herbs and plants to the barns and just being forgetful I didn't water them as often as I should. I thought everything was lost because it looked dead. I decided to water anyway just in case I could salvage anything. My chive which looks the worst actually came back from nothing.
* lavender (I haven't has much luck with lavender but was able to keep some for about a little over a year in a north facing window in the kitchen. This year I planted culinary lavender in with my other herbs. I am curious to see how these will do and what I can so with them.)
* lemon balm (I love lemon balm! It makes great tea and works well with poultry. I have it planted right in my flowerbed and have let it take over. It is thriving even with little to no watering. I love that it is blocking out weeds. Some people do not like how these varieties such as mint takes over but if you love mint and tea herbs as much as I do and use them often then by all means find a spot to let it thrive. Another option to keep it under control is taking a gallon sized can, cutting open both ends and sinking it deep into the ground leaving about an inch above ground and planting your aggressive herbs in the boundaries of the can. this helps prevent or slow the root system from taking over the area and makes it easier to dig up if you decide to move it.)
* lovage
* lemongrass
* marjoram
* mint (mints are some of the easiest to grow and are great for many recipes, teas and salads. Miints makes a wonderful addition to fresh raw fruit. Cut you favorite fruits add some lemon juice, honey and chopped mint makes a refreshing dessert.)
Perennial mints, including spearmint, applemint, and peppermint, are very vigorous and can become invasive. Rather than planting them directly in the garden, grow the plants in containers, then sink the containers into the garden or use the can trick as I mentioned with lemon balm. This will contain the roots and limit spreading.
* oregano (We did well growing these in a window box, either on the ground or on the window.)
* rosemary (I have a hard time with rosemary but other gardeners I know have rosemary that thrive.)
* sage
* tarragon
* thyme (Thyme is another easy to grow herb, planted in pots it did well for us. I may consider in the ground next time.)
*These may not be hardy in all regions of the country. Check zone ratings for which do well for your area.
Parsley is one of the few common herbs that is a biennial. However, unless you want to harvest the seed, you can treat it like an annual and plant new plants each season which is what I do. Perennial herbs that are not hardy in your region can be overwintered indoors, then brought back outdoors in the spring.
Where to Plant
Plant herbs where you can get to them easily for frequent harvesting, especially if you plan to use them in cooking. Consider planting your culinary herbs near the house or in a window box near on indoors in the kitchen. You can even purchase one of those indoor herb boxes that has a sunlamp attached and grow them on our counter top.
Flowerbeds are easily converted into an herb garden. This is what I have done with mine. Plant edible flowers and herbs. Window boxes are great for herbs such as oregano, basil, chives.Mints do well in the ground or in hanging baskets. When planting in the ground keep in mind that those herbs in the mint family are aggressive. The mint family is some of the easiest to grow and can tolerate a lot of abuse yet still thrive. I find that they do best in the ground though and take little time to care for. You can prevent or slow take over by using a large coffee can or gallon sized can to contain it in the soil as mentioned above.
Square foot gardens (Sams Club has a really near garden system with self irrigation that would work well for someone wanting to try this. If you are crafty you can make your own there are plans avaible online, just google square foot gardening and you are sure to pull up a lot of information and various plans.)
Earth boxes - another option for small spaces. You can purchase online or find plans to make your own using a few Rubbermaid containers.
Upside down gardens this is my new thing. The patio box we purchased has the capability to grow tomatoes or other vine plants upside down and allows you to plant herbs on top. Mine was planted over the weekend and an excited to see the results. We have excess tomato plants and I am taking some older hanging baskets and drilling a one inch hole in the bottom to plant the rest of the tomatoes. This will still allow me to plant another herbs on top such as chives and keep them off the ground to deter pest from getting after my tomatoes before they are ripe.
Patio gardening- there are various miniature varieties of trees and vegetable plants that are great for container growing. There is even a variety of bell peppers that grows best in hanging baskets. Out of all our tomatoes from last year grape tomatoes grown in a large terracotta pot snuggled in the flower bed thrived. We had more tomatoes than we could eat off that plant.
Vertical Gardening is gardening using trellises, nets, strings, cages, or poles to support growing plants. This technique is especially suited, but not limited, to small garden spaces. Vining and sprawling plants, such as cucumbers, grapes, tomatoes, melons, and pole beans are good options for this type of gardening. Some plants entwine themselves onto the support, while others may need to be tied. Remember that a vertical planting will cast a shadows onto anything planted near it. Beware of shading sun-loving plants, but feel free to plant shade-tolerant crops near the trellises and take advantage of the shade. Plants grown vertically occupy much less space on the ground, and though the yield per plant may be low, the yield per square foot of garden space is high. Because vertically growing plants are more exposed than non-staked plants, they dry out quickly and may need to be watered frequently. Many gardeners choose to use sprinklers or timed irrigation systems for this. A really neat variety that I planted last year was edible spinach vine. This is not spinach like what you think of at the super market. Purple Spinach vine has a purple vine and dark green heart shaped leaves that look similar to ivy. Spinach vine will cling to anything it can and works well growing even on poles.
Inter or Coplanting - Growing two or more types of vegetables in the same place at the same time. You can accomplish inter planting by alternating rows within a bed (plant a row of peppers next to a row of onions), by mixing plants within a row, or by distributing various species throughout the bed. For the beginner, alternating rows may be the easiest to manage. Inter planting can help keep insect and disease problems under control.Such as dill near plants which can attract aphids. Pests are fairly crop-specific; that is, they prefer vegetables of one type or family. Mixing families of plants avoids large expanses of the pest-preferred crop, helping to contain early pest damage within a small area, giving you a little more time to deal with the problem.
Long-season (slow-maturing) and short-season (quick maturing) plants like carrots and radishes, can be planted at the same time. The radishes are harvested before they begin to crowd the carrots. An example of combining growth patterns is planting smaller plants close to larger plants, (radishes at the base of beans or broccoli). Shade tolerant species like lettuce, spinach, and celery may be planted in the shadow of taller crops. Heavy feeders, such as cabbage family crops, should be mixed with less gluttonous plants. Root, leaf, and soil-building crops (legumes) may be mixed to take advantage of available nutrients.
3 main factors of a successful/productive garden:
1. Soil - probably the most important factor assuming ample water and sun. The soil is the "food" of plants and just like people, they have dietary requirements. Macro nutrients are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. You can get a soil test kit at Home Depot for about $5 and easily determine the levels. If you are deficient your plants will seriously suffer. You can get a lot of this into the soil by adding compost (decayed kitchen scraps and yard waste), but it may be advisable to supplement if you are really low, with other sources. Composting also adds organic matter to the soil which is important for holding moisture and attracting beneficial insects and micro flora that help breakdown soil nutrients. It also aids in soil water retention / permeability and root growth). To aid root growth, it is very advisable to break up soil to a depth of 24 inches prior to planting. After planting, it is very beneficial to add a layer of "mulch" such as grass clippings or shredded leaves around the plants. This holds in moisture, keeps down weeds, and as it breaks down feeds the plants. You can get micro nutrients from various sources, but desalinized seawater and seaweed are some of the best. Lots of people report amazing results from these.
2. Water. The amount will very depending on location and individual plant needs. Drip irrigation systems will conserve water and give a steady supply making less work for you. Hand watering is fine, but some plants such as tomatoes don't like the water on their leaves. Watering just after the heat of the day, such as 2 hours before sundown is ideal. This allows plants to absorb water all night long before the heat of the day dries the soil. Leaving 5 gallon buckets out to catch rain fall is a great idea. Rain water contains more nutrients than tap and many plants will thrive better using natural rainwater over chemically processed tap water.
3. Sun - Most plants like a lot of sun. The exception would be cucumber which likes a little shade and lettuce and chard which can tolerate shade. Full sun means at least six hours of direct light a day.
Try to plant in areas that are shaded from wind (and frost), pick plants that grow well for your planting zone and time of year (LSU agriculture has a good listing with planting dates you can download), and learn the nuances of each plant as they all have various likes and dislikes. Companion planting can strengthen plants (ie:tomato and basil), attract beneficial insects (Dill), and ward off unwanted bugs.
Recycle and Reuse
Composting - Make (with and old trash can, drum or purchase your own compost bin. Instead of throwing vegetable scraps out with the trash or down the disposal get a few brown paper bags from the market and put your scraps in that. Keep it in your kitchen and after a couple days toss the entire bag into your compost pile and it will break down. Keep raked leaves from your yard and grass clippings to add to the compost pile. The farmers almanac website has easy suggestions for starting a compost pile. If you are in need of a large amount of compost Lafayette has its owns compost facility which is free for those wanting to pick up a load of compost and a small fee for dropping off materials such as downed trees etc. Just come in your truck or bring a trailer and you can fill it with what you need. They are only open on certain days and times so you may need to call to find out hours.
http://www.farmersalmanac.com/home_garden/a/easy_ways_to_compost
Unique Ideas for planting
Old tires- rather than fill landfills with worn tires. Take the tires with you and use then for planting. Tires are great for planting things like tomatoes and potatoes.
One of the easiest root crops to grow is potatoes. One of the bonuses of growing potatoes is that you can eat them at various stages of growth. A small area can provide a nice yield and early spring is the best time to plant them. So here are a few hints on how to grow potatoes in the garden:
SOIL PREPARATION - potatoes grow in just average soil, so a great deal of soil preparation is not really needed. However the addition of some compost or a little peat moss is beneficial. Avoid using fresh manure or lime in the soil where potatoes are to be grown, as it tends to cause scab on the potatoes. The addition of either 5-10-10 or 10-20-20 fertilizer is beneficial (purchased fertilizer has this on the package). Mix the fertilizer into the planting soil, prior to planting. Till or spade the soil to a depth of ten or twelve inches.
CUTTING POTATOES - if the seed potatoes are small to medium sized, plant the whole potato. If they are large sized, you can cut them in half, or quarter them. Each section should have two or three 'eyes'. After cutting, let the cut surface callus-over before planting them.
Tires: There are two different methods of growing potatoes in tires. One way is to stack three or four tires, fill them with soil and plant two to three seed pieces about 1 or 2 inches deep in the top tire. The black of the tire absorbs and radiates heat, and there usually is a heavy yield.
Another method is to put a tire on the ground, fill it with soil and plant the potatoes within the tire. Plant two seed potatoes, whole or halved, about 2 inches deep. Once the potatoes have developed 3 or 4 inches of foliage growth, a second tire can be put on top of the first, Fill in with more soil, always leaving at least 2 inches of leaf growth above the soil level. Continue to fill as the plants grow. Once you've filled in the center of the second tire, continue the stack to a height of three or four tires. Keep in mind you must always leave about 2 inches of foliage showing.
WATERING - Black or hollow centers on potatoes is often caused by over-watering. Irregular watering causes irregular shaped or knobby potatoes. As a guideline, water potatoes (thoroughly) weekly during warmer summer weather.
HARVESTING - New young potatoes are harvested when peas are ripe (when growing simultaneously) or as the potato plants begin to flower. For storage of full sized potatoes harvest them when the vines turn yellow or have died-back.
Cleaning Produce
Hydrogen Peroxide is good for cleaning produce.Hydrogen peroxide is simply water with an extra oxygen molecule (H2O2) and breaks down into oxygen and water. It's certainly kinder on the environment and can be used for other house hold cleaning as well. Cleaning with Peroxide was actually mentioned in the movie "The Beautiful Truth". Hydrogen peroxide should be diluted down to 3% as a base for most applications. It's also readily available in 3% solution from your local pharmacy or drugstore (brown bottles)
Keep two spray bottles in your kitchen, one filled with regular 5% vinegar, and one filled with hydrogen peroxide (make sure it is a dark bottle -not see through or it will begin to break down into oxygen and water; rendering it ineffective. Store it in a dark bottle and remember to keep it out of reach of children.). The brown bottle of hydrogen peroxide that you can buy at the drugstore or discount mart is exactly what you need. The vinegar can be white distilled vinegar or apple cider vinegar; whatever you have on the shelf is fine.
To help kill bacteria such as E. Coli on fruits and vegetables, add a quarter cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide to a sink full of cold water. immerse, rinse with cold water and drain. By killing bacteria this will also help keep fruit and vegetables fresher for longer. You can also use a spray bottle containing a 50/50 mix of 3% hydrogen peroxide and water - just spray and rinse.
First spray the produce with the vinegar, then follow with a spray of the hydrogen peroxide. Rinse the fruits and vegetables under cold running water. That's it. It's simple and quick, and very inexpensive. There will not be any vinegar taste left on the fruits and vegetables. The acidic vinegar actually breaks down chemicals from the field and waxes or other shipping and storage enhancers that may have been used on the produce, and the residues can be rinsed away. The hydrogen peroxide will sanitize the surface of the food.
With some foods you will need to use extra care. For example, with grapes, try snipping apart a large bunch into smaller bunches. The grapes keep fresher longer when left on the stem, so leaving them in small bunches makes it easier to clean all surfaces while retaining freshness. If you have non-bruising produce like green beans or edible pod peas, put them in a lidded container and add a little vinegar. Then gently tip and roll the container to coat each piece, and pour out the vinegar. Repeat with a little hydrogen peroxide. Then dump them into a colander and rinse well under running water.
Any time you can buy fresh produce that was raised organically, you will begin with food that has had no pesticides or other chemicals used on it. But, even organic foods need to be sanitized before you eat them because they have been handled in the store. If you have a household with children, try to use this method of washing produce as soon as you bring it into your kitchen. This way you have fresh fruit clean and ready to eat anytime.
Other uses for hydrogen peroxide
- Dip your toothbrush in a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide solution to kill bacteria on the brush.
- A tablespoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide solution in a cup of water can be used as a mouthwash - swish for up to 60 seconds once a day; but don't swallow and be sure to rinse your mouth out afterward. This can also help whiten teeth.
- Hydrogen peroxide in a 3% solution applied to a rag can be used to clean kitchen counters and cutting boards to kill salmonella and other bacteria
- Half fill a spray bottle with a 3% solution and then top it up with water for use as a bathroom and toilet disinfectant and cleaner. This is especially useful if you have a septic, grey water or black water treatment system as it won't harm the bacteria in the treatment systems that break down waste.
- Mix a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution with two parts water in a spray bottle and use on areas affected by mold. You can try a neat 3% solution for areas like bathroom tiles, but be careful around painted areas too stong a mix may bleach them.
- Make a whitening toothpaste by mixing baking soda and 3% Hydrogen Peroxide to form a paste. You can add a few drops of peppermint oil for flavor and breath freshening.
- Use 3% hydrogen peroxide to sterilize cuts and abrasions - the fizzing you'll see occur is normal.
- Add a cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide to your whites wash in place of bleaches
- Remove bloodstains from clothing by blotting stain with 3% hydrogen peroxide, then rinse promptly with cold water to avoid bleaching of the fabric.
- To remove yellowing from lace curtains or tablecloths, fill a sink with cold water and a 2 cups of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Soak for at least an hour, rinse in cold water and air dry.
Tomatoes
Beets
Green bunching onions
Carrots
Leaf lettuce
Cucumbers
Turnip (greens + roots)
Peppers
Summer squash
Broccoli
Edible podded peas
Head lettuce
Onion storage bulbs
Swiss chard
Beans (pole, bush)
Growing your own:
10 steps to getting started if you have no gardening experience. The three key elements you must have are some sun, soil and water. Minimum tools needed. Gloves and a shovel work fine.
* 1. Stop applying all pesticides and weed killers to the soil in and around
your entire garden. No exceptions. *
*2. Start small, 50 square feet for example. Even better start in your flower garden or use containers on your patio. Find the spot that ideally has sun all year in your yard.
*3. Remove whatever debris is covering the dirt including rocks larger than
a fingernail. If plants already grow there dig them out with the shovel and
save them off to the side for potting or planting elsewhere*
*4. Cover your gardening area with organic material such as leaves, dried
grass clippings and fine plant material.*
*5. Get a bucketful of good compost. You can actually get free compost locally from the compost facility. Making your own is easy and can be done with a purchased compost bin or make your own using a drum or old trashcan. Spread this thinly all over your garden. You will be filling your soil with all manner of organisms, little bugs, worms and other beneficial life forms that are going
to do most of the work for you if you give them the chance. *
*6. Use a rake or shovel to mix the top 3 inches of soil and organic
material. Burying the organic material any deeper just kills the critters
and wastes your energy.*
*7. Keep the soil damp like a wrung out sponge, not soggy.*
*8. Never walk on your soil. Make a kneeling board to avoid compacting it
and use an old cushion to save your knees. *
*9. Obtain vegetables in pots or start your own from seed in seed starters. Dig a hole slightly larger than the pot, squeeze the sides to remove the plant, fluff it's roots lightly and
plant it. Mulch around it with organic material to keep the soil moist. *
(We like going to the local plant shows at Blackhum which is normally in April. The vendors there are usually very knowledgeable and you can actually find some really unique varieties. LSU agriculture department is one of our preferred sellers. Browse and speak with the herb vendors as well; they can share some great advice and usually have unique varieties.)
There is also a lady in town known as the plant lady. She is located near Congress and sells from her home. She has been one of the most knowledgeable people we have met concerning plants. Check the quick quarter in garage sales she usually posts her sales there. But, typically it is every Saturday although I know she had a lot of damage from the hurricane so I am not certain she is selling this year. Her prices are usually very good and can answer any question you may have. If anyone knows who I am speaking of and knows if she is selling this year post a comment to update and pass along that information.
*10. Start your own compost heap in a corner of the garden. Just heap up all
the clean organic material that you can get and mix it up occasionally.
Apply the compost periodically to the soil around your plants or use it to
start your own seeds. Starting a your own compost is great for the environment. It cuts down on what ends up in landfills and why buy fertilizer when you can make it just as easy for free.*
More information on composting http://planetgreen.discovery.com/composting-tips/
Try planting an edible landscaping. When planning your landscaping and flowerbeds consider incorporating edible plants, herbs and trees.
Herb Gardening
The most popular use for herbs is in cooking, and nearly every recipe uses at least one herb. Herbs have many other uses as well. Types such as lemon balm, chamomile and mint make wonderful tea, used either individually or combined. Chamomile makes a soothing tea for relaxing after a stressful day and mint teas help aid in digestion or soothing to an upset tummy.
Many herbs are also believed to have medicinal properties. The echinacea has become popular remedy for colds as well as lemon balm for sore throats, ginger, mint and the purple cone flower are used in herbal cold medicines. Lavender is common for healing wounds and aiding in sleep and aloe applied on the skin to relieve sunburns.
Even those with a so called black thumb like me can usually do well growing herbs. Many herbs also produce attractive flowers such as bee balm and chamomile. According to the 2006 National Gardening Survey, more than 14 million households in the United States grow herbs.
Types of Herbs
Like all plants, herbs can be categorized as annual, perennial, or biennial. Annual plants grow for only one season and so must be planted each spring. Perennials can live for several years. Their foliage die back in the fall, but will resume growth in the spring. And biennials grow for two years, growing foliage the first season, overwintering, then forming seeds and dying back at the end of the second season.
Here are some examples of each type of herb.
Annual Herbs
* basil (I love basil and can eat it off the plant. It is so easy to grow just be sure to waiter daily and pinch back the flowering buds before they flower. Once basil flowers it turns bitter and peppery. Grows fast)
* chamomile
* cilantro/coriander (I assume these are similar to those in the parsley family. this is my first year planting cilantro. The parsley family is easy to grow and worked best for us planted directly in the ground. A neat variation though the name slips me at the moment was one that tasted like cucumbers.)
* cumin
* dill (supposed to be one of the easiest. I tried in the pot and in the ground. The plant in pots failed miserably for me though thrived in the ground.) This year I planted mind in the planter I purchased along side my other herbs. We will see how it fares.
* fennel
Herbs can provide important habitat for beneficial insects. Dill and fennel are two herbs beneficial insects particularly like. So if you can plant these along side those flower that tend to be more problematic (aphids) to attract ladybugs and other beneficial insects. I may try planting another dill near my butterfly (milk) weed. Milkweed is notorious for attracting aphids and mine is no exception. We recently cut it back to try and get rid of as many aphids as possible because they are difficult to control. Ladybugs love aphids so planting dill nearby may help keep the problem under control. You can also purchase live ladybugs to release into your garden, this is another possibility once we get further alon gin the season. I believe Home Depot gets in a shipment of ladybugs, Marshall may as well though I have not been to their new location.
Perennial Herbs*
* chives (We lost almost everything after the hurricane. We had moved most of our herbs and plants to the barns and just being forgetful I didn't water them as often as I should. I thought everything was lost because it looked dead. I decided to water anyway just in case I could salvage anything. My chive which looks the worst actually came back from nothing.
* lavender (I haven't has much luck with lavender but was able to keep some for about a little over a year in a north facing window in the kitchen. This year I planted culinary lavender in with my other herbs. I am curious to see how these will do and what I can so with them.)
* lemon balm (I love lemon balm! It makes great tea and works well with poultry. I have it planted right in my flowerbed and have let it take over. It is thriving even with little to no watering. I love that it is blocking out weeds. Some people do not like how these varieties such as mint takes over but if you love mint and tea herbs as much as I do and use them often then by all means find a spot to let it thrive. Another option to keep it under control is taking a gallon sized can, cutting open both ends and sinking it deep into the ground leaving about an inch above ground and planting your aggressive herbs in the boundaries of the can. this helps prevent or slow the root system from taking over the area and makes it easier to dig up if you decide to move it.)
* lovage
* lemongrass
* marjoram
* mint (mints are some of the easiest to grow and are great for many recipes, teas and salads. Miints makes a wonderful addition to fresh raw fruit. Cut you favorite fruits add some lemon juice, honey and chopped mint makes a refreshing dessert.)
Perennial mints, including spearmint, applemint, and peppermint, are very vigorous and can become invasive. Rather than planting them directly in the garden, grow the plants in containers, then sink the containers into the garden or use the can trick as I mentioned with lemon balm. This will contain the roots and limit spreading.
* oregano (We did well growing these in a window box, either on the ground or on the window.)
* rosemary (I have a hard time with rosemary but other gardeners I know have rosemary that thrive.)
* sage
* tarragon
* thyme (Thyme is another easy to grow herb, planted in pots it did well for us. I may consider in the ground next time.)
*These may not be hardy in all regions of the country. Check zone ratings for which do well for your area.
Parsley is one of the few common herbs that is a biennial. However, unless you want to harvest the seed, you can treat it like an annual and plant new plants each season which is what I do. Perennial herbs that are not hardy in your region can be overwintered indoors, then brought back outdoors in the spring.
Where to Plant
Plant herbs where you can get to them easily for frequent harvesting, especially if you plan to use them in cooking. Consider planting your culinary herbs near the house or in a window box near on indoors in the kitchen. You can even purchase one of those indoor herb boxes that has a sunlamp attached and grow them on our counter top.
Flowerbeds are easily converted into an herb garden. This is what I have done with mine. Plant edible flowers and herbs. Window boxes are great for herbs such as oregano, basil, chives.Mints do well in the ground or in hanging baskets. When planting in the ground keep in mind that those herbs in the mint family are aggressive. The mint family is some of the easiest to grow and can tolerate a lot of abuse yet still thrive. I find that they do best in the ground though and take little time to care for. You can prevent or slow take over by using a large coffee can or gallon sized can to contain it in the soil as mentioned above.
Square foot gardens (Sams Club has a really near garden system with self irrigation that would work well for someone wanting to try this. If you are crafty you can make your own there are plans avaible online, just google square foot gardening and you are sure to pull up a lot of information and various plans.)
Earth boxes - another option for small spaces. You can purchase online or find plans to make your own using a few Rubbermaid containers.
Upside down gardens this is my new thing. The patio box we purchased has the capability to grow tomatoes or other vine plants upside down and allows you to plant herbs on top. Mine was planted over the weekend and an excited to see the results. We have excess tomato plants and I am taking some older hanging baskets and drilling a one inch hole in the bottom to plant the rest of the tomatoes. This will still allow me to plant another herbs on top such as chives and keep them off the ground to deter pest from getting after my tomatoes before they are ripe.
Patio gardening- there are various miniature varieties of trees and vegetable plants that are great for container growing. There is even a variety of bell peppers that grows best in hanging baskets. Out of all our tomatoes from last year grape tomatoes grown in a large terracotta pot snuggled in the flower bed thrived. We had more tomatoes than we could eat off that plant.
Vertical Gardening is gardening using trellises, nets, strings, cages, or poles to support growing plants. This technique is especially suited, but not limited, to small garden spaces. Vining and sprawling plants, such as cucumbers, grapes, tomatoes, melons, and pole beans are good options for this type of gardening. Some plants entwine themselves onto the support, while others may need to be tied. Remember that a vertical planting will cast a shadows onto anything planted near it. Beware of shading sun-loving plants, but feel free to plant shade-tolerant crops near the trellises and take advantage of the shade. Plants grown vertically occupy much less space on the ground, and though the yield per plant may be low, the yield per square foot of garden space is high. Because vertically growing plants are more exposed than non-staked plants, they dry out quickly and may need to be watered frequently. Many gardeners choose to use sprinklers or timed irrigation systems for this. A really neat variety that I planted last year was edible spinach vine. This is not spinach like what you think of at the super market. Purple Spinach vine has a purple vine and dark green heart shaped leaves that look similar to ivy. Spinach vine will cling to anything it can and works well growing even on poles.
Inter or Coplanting - Growing two or more types of vegetables in the same place at the same time. You can accomplish inter planting by alternating rows within a bed (plant a row of peppers next to a row of onions), by mixing plants within a row, or by distributing various species throughout the bed. For the beginner, alternating rows may be the easiest to manage. Inter planting can help keep insect and disease problems under control.Such as dill near plants which can attract aphids. Pests are fairly crop-specific; that is, they prefer vegetables of one type or family. Mixing families of plants avoids large expanses of the pest-preferred crop, helping to contain early pest damage within a small area, giving you a little more time to deal with the problem.
Long-season (slow-maturing) and short-season (quick maturing) plants like carrots and radishes, can be planted at the same time. The radishes are harvested before they begin to crowd the carrots. An example of combining growth patterns is planting smaller plants close to larger plants, (radishes at the base of beans or broccoli). Shade tolerant species like lettuce, spinach, and celery may be planted in the shadow of taller crops. Heavy feeders, such as cabbage family crops, should be mixed with less gluttonous plants. Root, leaf, and soil-building crops (legumes) may be mixed to take advantage of available nutrients.
3 main factors of a successful/productive garden:
1. Soil - probably the most important factor assuming ample water and sun. The soil is the "food" of plants and just like people, they have dietary requirements. Macro nutrients are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. You can get a soil test kit at Home Depot for about $5 and easily determine the levels. If you are deficient your plants will seriously suffer. You can get a lot of this into the soil by adding compost (decayed kitchen scraps and yard waste), but it may be advisable to supplement if you are really low, with other sources. Composting also adds organic matter to the soil which is important for holding moisture and attracting beneficial insects and micro flora that help breakdown soil nutrients. It also aids in soil water retention / permeability and root growth). To aid root growth, it is very advisable to break up soil to a depth of 24 inches prior to planting. After planting, it is very beneficial to add a layer of "mulch" such as grass clippings or shredded leaves around the plants. This holds in moisture, keeps down weeds, and as it breaks down feeds the plants. You can get micro nutrients from various sources, but desalinized seawater and seaweed are some of the best. Lots of people report amazing results from these.
2. Water. The amount will very depending on location and individual plant needs. Drip irrigation systems will conserve water and give a steady supply making less work for you. Hand watering is fine, but some plants such as tomatoes don't like the water on their leaves. Watering just after the heat of the day, such as 2 hours before sundown is ideal. This allows plants to absorb water all night long before the heat of the day dries the soil. Leaving 5 gallon buckets out to catch rain fall is a great idea. Rain water contains more nutrients than tap and many plants will thrive better using natural rainwater over chemically processed tap water.
3. Sun - Most plants like a lot of sun. The exception would be cucumber which likes a little shade and lettuce and chard which can tolerate shade. Full sun means at least six hours of direct light a day.
Try to plant in areas that are shaded from wind (and frost), pick plants that grow well for your planting zone and time of year (LSU agriculture has a good listing with planting dates you can download), and learn the nuances of each plant as they all have various likes and dislikes. Companion planting can strengthen plants (ie:tomato and basil), attract beneficial insects (Dill), and ward off unwanted bugs.
Recycle and Reuse
Composting - Make (with and old trash can, drum or purchase your own compost bin. Instead of throwing vegetable scraps out with the trash or down the disposal get a few brown paper bags from the market and put your scraps in that. Keep it in your kitchen and after a couple days toss the entire bag into your compost pile and it will break down. Keep raked leaves from your yard and grass clippings to add to the compost pile. The farmers almanac website has easy suggestions for starting a compost pile. If you are in need of a large amount of compost Lafayette has its owns compost facility which is free for those wanting to pick up a load of compost and a small fee for dropping off materials such as downed trees etc. Just come in your truck or bring a trailer and you can fill it with what you need. They are only open on certain days and times so you may need to call to find out hours.
http://www.farmersalmanac.com/home_garden/a/easy_ways_to_compost
Unique Ideas for planting
Old tires- rather than fill landfills with worn tires. Take the tires with you and use then for planting. Tires are great for planting things like tomatoes and potatoes.
One of the easiest root crops to grow is potatoes. One of the bonuses of growing potatoes is that you can eat them at various stages of growth. A small area can provide a nice yield and early spring is the best time to plant them. So here are a few hints on how to grow potatoes in the garden:
SOIL PREPARATION - potatoes grow in just average soil, so a great deal of soil preparation is not really needed. However the addition of some compost or a little peat moss is beneficial. Avoid using fresh manure or lime in the soil where potatoes are to be grown, as it tends to cause scab on the potatoes. The addition of either 5-10-10 or 10-20-20 fertilizer is beneficial (purchased fertilizer has this on the package). Mix the fertilizer into the planting soil, prior to planting. Till or spade the soil to a depth of ten or twelve inches.
CUTTING POTATOES - if the seed potatoes are small to medium sized, plant the whole potato. If they are large sized, you can cut them in half, or quarter them. Each section should have two or three 'eyes'. After cutting, let the cut surface callus-over before planting them.
Tires: There are two different methods of growing potatoes in tires. One way is to stack three or four tires, fill them with soil and plant two to three seed pieces about 1 or 2 inches deep in the top tire. The black of the tire absorbs and radiates heat, and there usually is a heavy yield.
Another method is to put a tire on the ground, fill it with soil and plant the potatoes within the tire. Plant two seed potatoes, whole or halved, about 2 inches deep. Once the potatoes have developed 3 or 4 inches of foliage growth, a second tire can be put on top of the first, Fill in with more soil, always leaving at least 2 inches of leaf growth above the soil level. Continue to fill as the plants grow. Once you've filled in the center of the second tire, continue the stack to a height of three or four tires. Keep in mind you must always leave about 2 inches of foliage showing.
WATERING - Black or hollow centers on potatoes is often caused by over-watering. Irregular watering causes irregular shaped or knobby potatoes. As a guideline, water potatoes (thoroughly) weekly during warmer summer weather.
HARVESTING - New young potatoes are harvested when peas are ripe (when growing simultaneously) or as the potato plants begin to flower. For storage of full sized potatoes harvest them when the vines turn yellow or have died-back.
Cleaning Produce
Hydrogen Peroxide is good for cleaning produce.Hydrogen peroxide is simply water with an extra oxygen molecule (H2O2) and breaks down into oxygen and water. It's certainly kinder on the environment and can be used for other house hold cleaning as well. Cleaning with Peroxide was actually mentioned in the movie "The Beautiful Truth". Hydrogen peroxide should be diluted down to 3% as a base for most applications. It's also readily available in 3% solution from your local pharmacy or drugstore (brown bottles)
Keep two spray bottles in your kitchen, one filled with regular 5% vinegar, and one filled with hydrogen peroxide (make sure it is a dark bottle -not see through or it will begin to break down into oxygen and water; rendering it ineffective. Store it in a dark bottle and remember to keep it out of reach of children.). The brown bottle of hydrogen peroxide that you can buy at the drugstore or discount mart is exactly what you need. The vinegar can be white distilled vinegar or apple cider vinegar; whatever you have on the shelf is fine.
To help kill bacteria such as E. Coli on fruits and vegetables, add a quarter cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide to a sink full of cold water. immerse, rinse with cold water and drain. By killing bacteria this will also help keep fruit and vegetables fresher for longer. You can also use a spray bottle containing a 50/50 mix of 3% hydrogen peroxide and water - just spray and rinse.
First spray the produce with the vinegar, then follow with a spray of the hydrogen peroxide. Rinse the fruits and vegetables under cold running water. That's it. It's simple and quick, and very inexpensive. There will not be any vinegar taste left on the fruits and vegetables. The acidic vinegar actually breaks down chemicals from the field and waxes or other shipping and storage enhancers that may have been used on the produce, and the residues can be rinsed away. The hydrogen peroxide will sanitize the surface of the food.
With some foods you will need to use extra care. For example, with grapes, try snipping apart a large bunch into smaller bunches. The grapes keep fresher longer when left on the stem, so leaving them in small bunches makes it easier to clean all surfaces while retaining freshness. If you have non-bruising produce like green beans or edible pod peas, put them in a lidded container and add a little vinegar. Then gently tip and roll the container to coat each piece, and pour out the vinegar. Repeat with a little hydrogen peroxide. Then dump them into a colander and rinse well under running water.
Any time you can buy fresh produce that was raised organically, you will begin with food that has had no pesticides or other chemicals used on it. But, even organic foods need to be sanitized before you eat them because they have been handled in the store. If you have a household with children, try to use this method of washing produce as soon as you bring it into your kitchen. This way you have fresh fruit clean and ready to eat anytime.
Other uses for hydrogen peroxide
- Dip your toothbrush in a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide solution to kill bacteria on the brush.
- A tablespoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide solution in a cup of water can be used as a mouthwash - swish for up to 60 seconds once a day; but don't swallow and be sure to rinse your mouth out afterward. This can also help whiten teeth.
- Hydrogen peroxide in a 3% solution applied to a rag can be used to clean kitchen counters and cutting boards to kill salmonella and other bacteria
- Half fill a spray bottle with a 3% solution and then top it up with water for use as a bathroom and toilet disinfectant and cleaner. This is especially useful if you have a septic, grey water or black water treatment system as it won't harm the bacteria in the treatment systems that break down waste.
- Mix a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution with two parts water in a spray bottle and use on areas affected by mold. You can try a neat 3% solution for areas like bathroom tiles, but be careful around painted areas too stong a mix may bleach them.
- Make a whitening toothpaste by mixing baking soda and 3% Hydrogen Peroxide to form a paste. You can add a few drops of peppermint oil for flavor and breath freshening.
- Use 3% hydrogen peroxide to sterilize cuts and abrasions - the fizzing you'll see occur is normal.
- Add a cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide to your whites wash in place of bleaches
- Remove bloodstains from clothing by blotting stain with 3% hydrogen peroxide, then rinse promptly with cold water to avoid bleaching of the fabric.
- To remove yellowing from lace curtains or tablecloths, fill a sink with cold water and a 2 cups of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Soak for at least an hour, rinse in cold water and air dry.
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